How to Properly Level Your 3D Printer Bed

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Leveling the print bed is one of the most important procedures in 3D printing. If the distance between the nozzle and the print bed is not correct (too large or too small) the object will not adhere.

Failure to level the bed correctly can lead to failures and errors such as non-adherence of parts, excess or lack of material, warping and other problems that would not have occurred if proper leveling had been performed.

This brief tutorial aims to definitively address all doubts regarding how to correctly level your 3D printer bed.

Leveling Your 3D Printer Bed

For the manual leveling process, it is recommended to heat up the nozzle and the print bed to appropriate temperatures using the 3D printer's menu (nozzle: 200°C, bed: 60°C).

Performing bed leveling while the components are heated is advised because materials expand under the influence of heat. Not doing so can yield different results.

I also recommend removing the filament currently loaded until you have successfully completed the initial leveling, as it might interfere with the process.

Do not retract the filament manually as it might damage the Bowden tube; simply remove and then replace the filament.

Step #1: Clean the 3d printer bed.

Since you will be making a print during the tutorial, there cannot be any traces of plastic or adhesive sticking.

You will need to clean the print bed with water and/or alcohol.

Use a paper napkin or clean cloth to wipe away any dirt.

A clean and dirt-free base will be the first step to achieve correct leveling.

Step #2: Clean the Hotend nozzle.

The nozzle must be clean, free of any excess plastic, as it can hinder bed leveling and give erroneous results.

You can do this with any tool, you just have to be careful not to burn yourself..

To perform the leveling you must remove any remaining plastic from the nozzle.

Heat the nozzle to 200°C and remove the filament fed into the extrusion system.

Then remove any excess plastic that oozes out of the nozzle.

Step #3: Download Files (Ender3 – Ender 3 Pro).

For Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro 3D printers, you can use G-code files that will automatically move the extruder to the 4 corners of the heated bed.

If your printer is an ender 3 you will need these g-code files that will help keep the bed level.

These files are to automatically direct the nozzle to the 4 corners and the center (for ender 3 type printers), where you will make the necessary adjustments with a sheet of paper.

The other file is for printing sample squares, aiding in on-the-fly corrections.

If your printer is not an Ender 3, check your printer's menu for an automatic leveling option. Most printers should already have this option.

If you do not have this option, you can perform the calibration by moving the extruder to the 4 corners and the center MANUALLY.

Step #4: Make Adjustments

With the Hotend heated, you will send the first of the files to print (for Ender 3 printers), and when the machine places the nozzle in the first corner, you will pass the paper underneath, while you make the adjustments to the base screws.

The goal is to move the base of the nozzle closer (or further away) to the point where the paper can pass under the nozzle but with friction. The paper must be able to pass in and out, but it must also be able to get back in.

When performing this action neither the base nor the Hotend should go up and down, as this would mean that the Hotend carriage is loose or that the factory springs are giving way.

You will repeat the process in all the corners and in the center.

If this is your first time doing it, then you should do it 2 times to make sure that the base has been correctly leveled.

Step #5: Print reference squares

Once you have done the first leveling with the piece of paper or the millimeter spacers, you will move on to make A second part of the leveling printing some 20mm x 20mm squares.

At this point you can put the PLA filament back in and use the file. squares_20x20.gcode to start printing.

With the squares, you'll adjust on the fly. You've made an initial approximation with the paper, but now you're seeking the right point to ensure all prints have a perfect first layer.

Consider the following:

• If the filament is transparent and has excess filament coming out of the nozzle, it is because it is too close to the bed.The solution is to adjust the nuts before finishing to move the bed away from the nozzle.

• If the filament is peeling off the heated bed, or the walls are not sticking together, then the nozzle is too far away. from the bed and it will be necessary to move it closer by loosening the screws.

• If you are lucky and the square printed perfectly, then you won't have to make any changes..

Once you have made your adjustments, you can print the squares again and see that they are all perfect.

This will give you an indication that your calibration has been successful.

You Can't Level the 3D Printer Bed

What if you can't level the 3D printer bed?

If you are unable to level the print bed because the nozzle does not scrape with the paper, either the first layer does not stick in the warm bed, or the bed does not move away from the nozzle it is because there is a problem.

These are some of the most common problems that prevent you from leveling your 3D printer bed:

• The bed isn't flat enough.
• One or all screws fixing the platform are loose or improperly positioned.
• You have replaced a thick base with a thinner one and have not leveled it sufficiently.

Some solutions could include:

• Switching to a glass bed, which maintains its flatness.
• add a nut so the screw doesn't spin wild.
• If you've changed the bed and the screw runs out while leveling the first corner, continue leveling. Proceed with all corners, and you'll find that on the next round, the bed will move closer to the nozzle.

I invite you to read: Threads in 3D printing (and how to avoid them)